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Road Trip to the Languedoc

JR — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 17:29:01 +0000

Winemaker and consultant Eduoard Labeye is taking us on a tour of southern France. This maritime region is famous for its blends. Generally speaking, in more stable continental climates single-varietal wines are common. But in these more unpredictable weather patterns, it makes sense to have a variety of grapes to choose from. Not to mention the complexity and nuance that blends can achieve. This also lends these wines wonderful vintage variation and that element of surprise that the French relish. Blending is a science, and it’s fascinating to watch trained noses and palates painstakingly adjust minute amounts of different blending components. French wine making, unlike in the U.S. and “New World”, is very regulated by the government. In this region of the Cote du Rhone winemakers are allowed, by law, to use up to eight different types of grape, and reds are generally blends of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan. We visit Domaine Boudinaud in the Cote du Rhone, where we watch as Eduoard, together with Thierry and Veronique Boudinaud finalize this year’s blend. After that we continue west, along the Mediterranean to the vast and diverse Languedoc region, the largest contiguous wine region in the world. “Langue” means language and “D’Oc” is the ancient Occitane culture (and corresponding language) that settled here long ago. The Languedoc is France’s huge secret, but these wines are rapidly gaining in popularity for their excellent value. We land at the colorful Hotel Minervois, then join with local winemakers for a tasting at the Cooperative Cave de Pepiuex. Afterwards we join the winemakers for a much-anticipated home-cooked meal of locally harvested wild mushrooms and grilled duck. We discover that the French fungus called ‘cepes’ are the same family of mushroom as our native boletes. This region draws on different culinary influences, many from nearby Spain, and wild harvested game and forest plants, herbs, and mushrooms figure prominently into the cuisine. There is a lot to explore in this region, and you won’t find many tourists.

Our final day in the Languedoc we join Eduoard and his largest client, Fat Bastard, as they finalize their blends. We wrap up our visit to the Languedoc in the dining room of the Hotel Minervois. Who says the French are uptight? If you want a real experience, go to the Languedoc.

Inside the Left Bank

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 22:05:00 +0000

Our stay in Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the Left Bank. This relatively small region is hailed as the most famous, and successful, wine region in the world. We go there to find out why, taste the wines, eat the food, and meet the people. Contrary to the popular image of this elite area, the winemakers we met there were gracious, humble, and generous. Just like everywhere else in France.

The Other Side of Bordeaux

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:53:41 +0000

Bordeaux is a huge region of immense diversity. In this episode we eschew the giant, famous estates of the Left Bank and explore the often overlooked Right Bank, near St. Emilion, where rolling countryside, ancient villages, and quaint farmhouses dot the landscape. Here we stay with the Holzberg family, discover “pineau”, the Nardou Bar and Grill, and see firsthand what life at a small estate in Bordeaux is like. If you’re wondering, it’s pretty nice.

Burgundy: Terroir, Unearthed

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:42:53 +0000

We visit the legendary wine region of Burgundy to try and better understand the notion of “terroir.” It’s pinot noir, chardonnay, fine Burgundian cuisine and lots of good times as we explore this diverse and hugely entertaining region.

Exploring Provence

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:24:24 +0000

What’s it like to be a busy consulting winemaker in the south of France? We take a road trip with Eduoard Labeye on a typical work week to find out. Edoard is simply one of the most beloved winemakers in France, but he also consults for some pretty big names (who will remain unmentioned) in the U.S., Spain, and South Africa. He wears many hats: wine maker, consultant, wine broker, barrel broker. It’s fascinating to travel with him, and exhausting as well. Our whirlwind journey begins with a visit to the Cave de Saint Pantaleon cooperative in the southern Cotes du Rhone. Cooperatives everywhere are struggling, as consumers move to more sophisticated wines. Here Edouard is using radical new techniques to drastically improve the quality of this once-bulk wine. It’s working, and the local farmers love it. Edouard’s experience as a broker also allow him to recognize trends in the marketplace, so he can create wines that fit consumer habits. This is the Old World slowly accepting the practices of the new. At the end of the day, the result is better wine, and more competition.

We’ve been on the road for almost a month, and so enjoy some R&R and a home-cooked meal at Eduoard’s home in the small Provencal town of Le Grange Gontard. There we meet his wife Catherine, and artist, and his two energetic sons, Guillame and Gauthier. With typical French hospitality, they open their home, kitchen, and cellar to four hungry, tired (and thirsty) travelers. Edouard’s house is almost 500 years old, and he undertook the renovation on it mostly by himself. It’s the perfect place to rest, relax, and enjoy the wonders of Provence.

The Old World Wine of Provence

JR — Tue, 05 May 2009 20:55:13 +0000

The Wine Travelers visit the oldest wine making site in southern France at the Chateau St. Cosme in the village of Gigondas, on the northern edge of Provence. Here we meet the lively winemaker Louis Barroul and learn what makes the southern Rhone so different than the north.

We speak about the mistral and view the ancient Roman presses hewn from limestone deep in the cellars of Chateau St. Cosme.

After tasting 120 yr. old grenache we head out for a gorgeous Provencal lunch at the local bistro.

We wrap up our sunny, enjoyable visit to Provence with a trip to some very old grenache vineyards.

Crazy Vineyards, Crazy Wine

JR — Tue, 05 May 2009 20:24:45 +0000

The Wine: Rouchebourbe, Domaine Alain Paret
The Story: Crazy Vineyards, Crazy Wine
Our next stop is in St. Joseph, in the northern Rhone, where we visit the Domaine of Alain Paret to explore the steep syrah vineyards of this well-known region. We also meet fellow Wine Traveler and frequent host Eduoard Labeye, the colorful and energetic consulting winemaker for Alain Paret. Prepare for an outrageous look into the world of Rhone wine and winemakers.

Alain owns some of the steepest vineyards in the Rhone region, and he calls them the “Crazy Vineyards.” He takes us on a four-wheel drive adventure through some of them. This is definitely not your usual vineyard tour.

After our vineyard tour we retire to our hotel, The Hotel Bellevue, for an absolutely incredible 3-star meal by Alain’s cousin, Jean Paret.

Our journey to the Northern Rhone wraps with a visit to a charming little farm where the owners make fresh goat cheese.

The Italian Harvest

JR — Tue, 05 May 2009 19:47:01 +0000

The Wine: Gagliasso “Rocce del Annunziata.”
The story: The Italian Harvest

We stop in the Piedmont wine region of Northern Italy for an unforgettable harvest experience. Our hosts are the Gagliasso Family, who make an excellent Barolo that we found in New York’s famous Felidia restaurant. We join them for the nebbiolo harvest, a trip to the Alba truffle market, and an traditional harvest feast, complete with multiple courses, wine pairings, and lots of song.

The Gagliasso winery is located near the small village of La Morra. The most celebrated wine here is called Barolo, named after the nearby village of Barolo. It is made from the Nebbiolo grape, the same grape that is used in Barbaresco wines. Nebbiolo wines are powerful, elegant, and can be aged for many years. This region of the Piedmont is collectively called the “Langhe”, and the chalky soils found here produce what are considered the finest Barolos in Piedmont. The region is also famous for the white truffle, which is a type of fungus that grows under ground in the presence of certain tree species, notably oak, poplar, and beech. While we wait for the rains to subside, we take a visit to the famous white truffle market held in the nearby city of Alba.

Finally, the rains stop and the final day of harvest can commence. We are picking the final block in the Rocce del Annunziata vineyard. The hard work begins, of course, with a huge lunch.

With the harvest now completely over, it’s time to celebrate with the harvest feast. Sadly, this tradition is dying out in Europe with the modernization of the wine industry. But in the Barolo region, where small family vineyards dominate, it is still very much alive, and very special.

November in Tuscany

JR — Fri, 01 May 2009 22:45:04 +0000

We finish our trip in Tuscany. It’s early November, and the olive harvest is in full swing. Tuscan olives are better known for oil, rather than eating. Here we witness the time-honored method of harvesting outside of San Gimignano, an ancient medieval city famous for its stone towers.

Next, we move on to Florence, where we enjoy all things Antinori, starting with a trip to the Tignanello Estate, home of the first Super Tuscan. After we enjoy an amazing lunch at the Osteria di Passignano.

Afterwards we enjoy a very special visit to an olive press.

Finally, we end our journey with an amazing Tuscan meal at the Cantinetta Antinori, in Florence.

The Wine Dreamers of Priorat

JR — Fri, 30 May 2008 23:50:00 +0000

Priorat wines have achieved a cult following recently with the more adventurous of wine enthusiasts. This tiny region, located in the Catalan region of eastern Spain, is an ancient and once thriving wine center, but it has suffered greatly in the last century under phylloxera and war. By the mid 1900’s, commercial production was all but dead. In 1988, however, a small group of Spanish and international winemakers rediscovered the potential locked in these lean, slate soils, and now the Priorat is experiencing a remarkable renaissance. But still, it is a place beautifully frozen in time, where ancient stone villages survive almost entirely on agriculture, where the local breakfast spot is packed every morning of the harvest, and where tourism is virtually unknown. Our friend Eduoard Labeye, a consulting winemaker and broker, takes us to this magical region and introduces us to a small group of his friends stubbornly dedicated to low yields and traditional methods, and who are making extraordinary wines. He calls them not wine makers, but wine dreamers. Join us for part one of our Priorat episode, as we travel to this remote and ruggedly beautiful region to discover one of the great wine stories of our time.
In Priorat we meet up with well-known South African wine maker Eben Saadie, of Saadie Family fame.

Eben splits his time up between South Africa and Spain, like many other winemakers who have discovered the region and now call it a second home. His partner, Dominik Huber, is a restauranteur from Munich who fell in love with this area and decided to stay. These guys were great hosts. Together with our friend Eduoard (from Crazy Wine and Travels with Eduoard episodes) they took us on a rowdy drive up to their flagship vineyard where you can see most of the region. It feels like Utah here - stunning red rock canyon, sparse Mediterranean vegetation mixed with pine forest, and dramatic rock walls. As is usually the case, the drive up was, well, exciting. But when you get there, and see how steep the terrain is, how rocky the soil, and how little water is available, you start to realize why these wines can fetch high prices. Granted, there is some irrationality involved with the sticker price on some of the more sought-after brands (we’re talking upwards of $300/bottle), but nonetheless, this is extreme farming. And if you’ve ever had a good Priorat, you know that these wines can be very special: deep, muscular, silky, and profound.
Our tour of the Priorat continues. We travel to Gratallops, located in the foothills of the Priorat. Here the climate is drier and hotter, and the wines reflect this. We meet with Daphne Glorian-Solomon, founder and winemaker of Clos Erasmus, one of the more celebrated Priorat wines. After that it’s another crazy tour to one of the highest vineyards in the region. We finish in Porrera, an ancient village almost too beautiful for words. So sit back and watch, my friend.

We conclude our episode, as always, with a local meal and local wine.