Napa’s Best: Wine and Food Pairing at Kuleto Estate

JR — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 16:43:35 +0000

In our exploration for the best that Napa has to offer, we found the wine and food pairing at the Kuleto Estate. Usually, wine and food pairings at wineries mean a hunk of cheese, dry bread, and a slice of salami. That is far from the case at Kuleto. With his restaurant background, this is the most exquisite pairing we have ever witnessed. Executive Chef Janelle Weaver gathers almost all the ingredienst from the estate’s organic gardens and ranch, then assembles a three-course collection of delicacies designed to complement and contrast the range of Kuleto wines. This is a foodie’s dream come true. Here’s a quick look at what goes down each Thursday afternoon starting at 11:45. For more info go to www.KuletoEstate.com.

Road Trip to the Languedoc

JR — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 17:29:01 +0000

Winemaker and consultant Eduoard Labeye is taking us on a tour of southern France. This maritime region is famous for its blends. Generally speaking, in more stable continental climates single-varietal wines are common. But in these more unpredictable weather patterns, it makes sense to have a variety of grapes to choose from. Not to mention the complexity and nuance that blends can achieve. This also lends these wines wonderful vintage variation and that element of surprise that the French relish. Blending is a science, and it’s fascinating to watch trained noses and palates painstakingly adjust minute amounts of different blending components. French wine making, unlike in the U.S. and “New World”, is very regulated by the government. In this region of the Cote du Rhone winemakers are allowed, by law, to use up to eight different types of grape, and reds are generally blends of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan. We visit Domaine Boudinaud in the Cote du Rhone, where we watch as Eduoard, together with Thierry and Veronique Boudinaud finalize this year’s blend. After that we continue west, along the Mediterranean to the vast and diverse Languedoc region, the largest contiguous wine region in the world. “Langue” means language and “D’Oc” is the ancient Occitane culture (and corresponding language) that settled here long ago. The Languedoc is France’s huge secret, but these wines are rapidly gaining in popularity for their excellent value. We land at the colorful Hotel Minervois, then join with local winemakers for a tasting at the Cooperative Cave de Pepiuex. Afterwards we join the winemakers for a much-anticipated home-cooked meal of locally harvested wild mushrooms and grilled duck. We discover that the French fungus called ‘cepes’ are the same family of mushroom as our native boletes. This region draws on different culinary influences, many from nearby Spain, and wild harvested game and forest plants, herbs, and mushrooms figure prominently into the cuisine. There is a lot to explore in this region, and you won’t find many tourists.

Our final day in the Languedoc we join Eduoard and his largest client, Fat Bastard, as they finalize their blends. We wrap up our visit to the Languedoc in the dining room of the Hotel Minervois. Who says the French are uptight? If you want a real experience, go to the Languedoc.

Tasting: Little Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

JR — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 21:52:45 +0000

We just received another shipment of our Little Vineyards club selection. Popped the Cab the other night and it was awesome. From our notes:
Color: Deep pomegranate.
Nose: Ripe notes of sumac and wild black currant with undertones of oak. A bit of alcohol still on this youngster, but nothing to be afraid of.
Palate: Explosive dark and red fruit on the mid-palate that is balanced by firm, almost chalky sweet tannins and a lingering finish of blueberry and sweet wood. Leaves the gums comfortably numb. Give this one five years (if you can) and you will have one hell of a bottle to open. We were sad when this baby was gone.
Our rating: 90 points
Food friendliness: Rich and fruity, but dry enough to be a fine accompaniment to heavier foods. We paired it up with a grilled steak with home-made Colorado black currant jam and red wine reduction. Oh yeah.

Notes on the winery:
Little Vineyards is one of the tucked-away secret spots on Highway 12 in the heart of Sonoma’s beautiful Valley of the Moon. If you’re heading north towards Santa Rosa it’s just before BR Cohn on the left, and the driveway can be hard to nail. But don’t miss it - it’s a great stop on your tour and one of those enigmatic places that set the Sonoma wine country apart from its neighbors. Intimate and tiny, you’ll most likely find the owners Joan and Rich behind the bar. Rich is a professional musician, and often breaks out some of his unusual instruments for a little jam session. Just like their larger neighbor at BR Cohn, rock’n'roll is a big part of the scene here when you taste. So are the classic cars. They have a great story, and the unusual distinction of natural thermal under much of their vineyards. This is one of the favorite stops in Sonoma, and while a few of the house blends can be awkward, for the most part the juice here is top notch. We loved the Center Stage (Bordeaux Blend); that beauty ended up being our favorite of the tasting. Go to www.littlevineyards.com for more info.

The Kuleto Estate

JR — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:12:40 +0000

We just did a bunch of work at the Kuleto Estate and it’s definitely our new favorite winery in Napa. We are just blown away by the beauty and laid back, friendly atmosphere up there. It’s a ways off the beaten path, up on a mountain overlooking Lake Hennessey and Rutherford on the eastern side of the Napa Valley. You need an appointment to visit and tours are $35/person but it’s definitely worth it. The founder and vintner is, of course, Pat Kuleto, the legendary restaurant designer and culinary entrepreneur (Martini House in St. Helena; Nick’s Cove over in Tomales Bay; Farallon, Kuleto’s, and Boulevard in San Fran to name just a few). Pat is a kindred spirit - loves people, food, wine, and good times. This welcoming attitude is evident in the vibe up there; everyone who works at Kuleto is super friendly. Pat, with his design background, has created a masterpiece that has to be seen to be appreciated. But the vineyards are really the centerpiece: almost 100 acres of sustainably farmed vineyards with over 100 individual blocks, which is pretty amazing for a vineyard that size. The wines are phenomenal, and have racked up some nice scores (if that’s your bag). The winemaker Dave Lattin is one of the nicest guys in wine country, and his style leans towards food friendly. Which they take very seriously. The Estate has a working ranch and vast gardens, which supply the full-time executive chef, Janelle Weaver, with an abundant supply of fresh, organic ingredients for her amazing culinary creations. She does a weekly wine and food pairing on Thursday afternoons that is the most extravagant (and fun) that we’ve seen at ANY winery. The place is off the hook, off the beaten path, and a heck of a lot of fun. It’s still kind of a secret. Don’t miss it.

Watch the video
More info: Kuleto Estate website

Surf Fish

JR — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 17:29:13 +0000

We visited our old friends and neighbors recently for a great meal back in our old “Hood” - the West Side of Sonoma (city). Geordie Carr, head winemaker for Enkidu, broke out a newly bottled ‘07 Sonoma Valley zinfandel from his own label: Bump. He whipped up some local surf fish to go with it. Ali ‘cued up some awesome organic sausages from the Sonoma market and free vegetables that someone threw down on the bar at the Wine Exchange (plus a few tomatoes from Pat Kuleto’s villa garden). Mieko provided some unbelievably huge collard greens and fresh meyer lemon from her mom’s garden in Santa Cruz. We thought it would be fun to videotape a typical California bounty with locally produced artisanal wine. We call this “Surf Fish.” For food and wine lovers, the Golden State is hard to beat.

More info: Geordie is the head winemaker for Enkidu, plus seven other labels out of their 8th St. winery. He and Mieko are now launching their own label, Bump Wine, which currently consists of a Sonoma Valley Zin and a Syrah. Their Zin is big, bold, and beautiful, a powerful wine made with minimal manipulation. The Syrah is medium dark, exhibits lush fruit, firm but silky tannins, and a gorgeous lingering finish of exotic spices. It’s an elegant example of how good Sonoma Valley Syrah can be. Stay tuned for these great, limited production hand-made Sonoma wines, and check in on www.bumpwine.com soon. We wish you well, Geordie and Mieko!

Inside the Left Bank

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 22:05:00 +0000

Our stay in Bordeaux wouldn’t be complete without a trip to the Left Bank. This relatively small region is hailed as the most famous, and successful, wine region in the world. We go there to find out why, taste the wines, eat the food, and meet the people. Contrary to the popular image of this elite area, the winemakers we met there were gracious, humble, and generous. Just like everywhere else in France.

The Other Side of Bordeaux

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:53:41 +0000

Bordeaux is a huge region of immense diversity. In this episode we eschew the giant, famous estates of the Left Bank and explore the often overlooked Right Bank, near St. Emilion, where rolling countryside, ancient villages, and quaint farmhouses dot the landscape. Here we stay with the Holzberg family, discover “pineau”, the Nardou Bar and Grill, and see firsthand what life at a small estate in Bordeaux is like. If you’re wondering, it’s pretty nice.

Burgundy: Terroir, Unearthed

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:42:53 +0000

We visit the legendary wine region of Burgundy to try and better understand the notion of “terroir.” It’s pinot noir, chardonnay, fine Burgundian cuisine and lots of good times as we explore this diverse and hugely entertaining region.

Exploring Provence

JR — Wed, 06 May 2009 21:24:24 +0000

What’s it like to be a busy consulting winemaker in the south of France? We take a road trip with Eduoard Labeye on a typical work week to find out. Edoard is simply one of the most beloved winemakers in France, but he also consults for some pretty big names (who will remain unmentioned) in the U.S., Spain, and South Africa. He wears many hats: wine maker, consultant, wine broker, barrel broker. It’s fascinating to travel with him, and exhausting as well. Our whirlwind journey begins with a visit to the Cave de Saint Pantaleon cooperative in the southern Cotes du Rhone. Cooperatives everywhere are struggling, as consumers move to more sophisticated wines. Here Edouard is using radical new techniques to drastically improve the quality of this once-bulk wine. It’s working, and the local farmers love it. Edouard’s experience as a broker also allow him to recognize trends in the marketplace, so he can create wines that fit consumer habits. This is the Old World slowly accepting the practices of the new. At the end of the day, the result is better wine, and more competition.

We’ve been on the road for almost a month, and so enjoy some R&R and a home-cooked meal at Eduoard’s home in the small Provencal town of Le Grange Gontard. There we meet his wife Catherine, and artist, and his two energetic sons, Guillame and Gauthier. With typical French hospitality, they open their home, kitchen, and cellar to four hungry, tired (and thirsty) travelers. Edouard’s house is almost 500 years old, and he undertook the renovation on it mostly by himself. It’s the perfect place to rest, relax, and enjoy the wonders of Provence.

The Old World Wine of Provence

JR — Tue, 05 May 2009 20:55:13 +0000

The Wine Travelers visit the oldest wine making site in southern France at the Chateau St. Cosme in the village of Gigondas, on the northern edge of Provence. Here we meet the lively winemaker Louis Barroul and learn what makes the southern Rhone so different than the north.

We speak about the mistral and view the ancient Roman presses hewn from limestone deep in the cellars of Chateau St. Cosme.

After tasting 120 yr. old grenache we head out for a gorgeous Provencal lunch at the local bistro.

We wrap up our sunny, enjoyable visit to Provence with a trip to some very old grenache vineyards.